Another reconnaissance to offer a new tour to my clients next year. This time the destination is the Vanoise national park and its famous Tour des Glaciers trek in order to check variation foot path, off the trail path, check mountain lodges… Beyond this work objective it was four great autumn days in the mountains. Thunder and rain were always threatening but I alway got lucky enough to avoid them and take advantage of breaks in the weather. Great breaks which sun’s rays going through clouds were making the landscape blaze of its autumn colors. From blond grass to red blueberry leaves, the vegetation was wearing its shimmering veil. Mountain offers such a great sight at this season! It is also much more quiet and relaxing, away from summer crowd.

I decided to reach the national park from Modane as it is much more easier by train, to then walk up to the OrgèreRoc de la Pêche lodge by crossing the Masse and Aussois pass. I hesitated to walk further to the Valette lodge but clouds where threatening. That was a mistake! The Roc de la Pêche lodge is way too expensive (26 euros just for the night, more than twice the price of any other lodge!). On the other hand, the Valette lodge is really well placed with an incredible panorama and a much warmer welcome. Even if I just passed by to talk with the caretaker of the lodge, to my opinion, the view makes it is the best lodge of the Tour des Glaciers loop. From nearby ridges, you can see as far as the Mont-Blanc and Ecrins massifs when the weather is clear. Too bad ; it will be for next time. lodge which was my start and finish of my loop. Bivouac being forbidden after the 31st of August, I had no other choice than staying in mountain lodges. Although I did carry my food, the advantage was that I had a light backpack. For the first stage, I walked up to the

It’s only the next day that I went to the Valette lodge from where I could contemplate the first sun’s ray on the mountains on the other side of the valley. Then up to the Vanoise pass it was a succession of small valleys and pass, sometimes imposing, sometimes quiet, majestic, wild or surprising, anyway this part of the loop is one of the most diversified and astonishing.

The third day, as the foot path to the Arpont lodge is quite short I decided to do some off the trail hiking and follow some variation path not indicated on the map. My efforts were rewarded by breathtaking landscapes. “Pure Nature” as they sometimes say in advertising.

It was then the last day to finish the loop and go back to the Orgère lodge through the Barbier pass. I started early morning, in the mist. On the way, old meadows ruins were appearing suddenly like ghosts, suggesting the lively past of these pastures when they were still used. This mist didn’t made me blind, from times to times  it lift the veil allowing me to see summits like a window with the view on mountains. But what made it pleasant is that it allowed countless encounters with chamois packs as blind as me. But it also acted treacherously. Happy to see so much chamois, I lowered my guard. When  heared the sounds of sheep livestock bells it was already two late. I also heard two big “patou” sheepdogs. As blind as me they couldn’t identify me and came running and barking at me. When they realized it was just a simple hiker they just kept barking until I leave the place but that was scary !

Four days, that was short, too short as often. Just had the time to have unforgettable memories that I hope to be able to share with clients next time.

Itinerary :

GPX files for GPS: day 1 , day 2 , day 3 , day 4 . Off the trail parts have been removed on purpose. Read the disclaimer before using the GPX files.

related articles :

• Presentation of the Vanoise massif
• Facts about the Vanoise National Park