Free climbing again this week-end at Tenō-iwa (天王岩) this time, close to Okutama (奥多摩) in the Okuchichibu-sankai (奥秩父山塊) mountain range. It was not a great climbing day. Physically exhausted, I had absolutely no motivated. Added to this that my hands were completely wet and slippery because of the sweat (I never use chalk), I didn’t even succeed to climb a 5.9 route lead climbing ! A day to forgot quickly…

Information

This site is made of 2 rocks, one at the top and at the bottom. On the top rock the most difficult routes, on the bottom one the easiest routes. Rocks are in the woods, so not always very dry. The worst is the bottom one which not only is in the woods but never see the sun light and is not often climbed. Most of the holds are humid and dirty. Not very pleasant. The top area is of better quality, but you need a higher level (5.10b/c at the minimum) otherwise you won’t be able to climb anything.

Access

From Shinjuku station, you have to take the Chuō-line (中央線) to Tachikawa station (立川駅), change for a train on the Ōme-line (青梅線) to Musashi-itsukaichi station (武蔵五日市駅), one of the final stop on this line (780 yen). Use http://www.hyperdia.com/en/Yōzawa (養沢) and get off at Sorisatobashi (曽利郷橋) bus stop. Walk the trail which goes up in the woods from the bus stop for about 2 minutes to reach the rocks. On Saturdays and Sundays, bus leave Musashi-itsukaichi station at 7:5, 8:20, 9:30. To go back, bus stops at 15:06, 16 :45 et 18:28. Confirm bus timetables using this website (in Japanese) http://www2.bus-navi.com/pc/index.php. website to check timetables in English. From the station take a bus to

Security

Compared to other sites, routes have more bolt and as such more secure even though the second blot is not placed for climber’s optimum security (close to the first bolt to avoid reaching the ground if you fall). In case of accident call the Itsukaichi police station (五日市警察署) at this number: 042-595-0110.