climbing sites around Tōkyō

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After publishing the list ofTōkyō‘s climbing gyms, I decided to summarize the information on rock climbing sites around Tōkyō which are accessible on a day trip. As of today I haven’t climb on all the sites so I will only summarize here the information I have already published regarding sites where I have climbed. But i will continue to update this post as I go climbing to new places. Stay tuned!

Last update : 07 November 2011

For the list of climbing & bouldering gyms in Tōkyō, check this article.

 

Tennō-iwa (天王岩)

  • Details here
  • Location : Okutama (奥多摩), Tōkyō
  • Climbing period : apparently all year according to the topo, but it must must be too hot and humid in the summer to climb
  • Access time by public transportation : 1h from Shinjuku plus 30 minutes (?) buy bus
  • Remarks : most routes are above 5.10b ; the bottom rock is barely and in the shadow so often wet

Koizawa buttress (越沢バットレス)

  • Details here
  • Location : Okutama (奥多摩), Tōkyō
  • Période: apparently all year according to the topo, but it must must be too hot and humid in the summer to climb
  • >Access time by public transportation : 1h”à from Shinjuku plus 30 minutes walk
  • Remarks: place to train multi-pitch routes

Kōtakuji (広沢寺)

  • Details here
  • Location : Honatugi (本厚木), Kanagawa prefecture (神奈川県)
  • Climbing period : apparently all year according to the topo, but it must must be too hot and humid in the summer to climb
  • Access time by public transportation : about 2h from Shinjuku
  • Remarks : good free climbing training site for beginners route ; can also practice multi-pitch rope work ; equipped with new expansion bolts

Takatoriyama (鷹取山)

  • Details here
  • Location : Kanagawa prefecture (神奈川県)
  • Climbing period : apparently all year according to the topo, but it must must be too hot and humid in the summer to climb
  • Access time by public transportation : 45 minutes from Shinagawa et 30 mintes à pied
  • Remarks : crumbly sandstone ; top rope climbing only ; routes are difficult ; becareful and prepare secured top anchors

Yugawara (湯河原)/Maku-iwa (幕岩)

  • Details here
  • Location : Yugawara, Kanagawa prefecture (神奈川県)
  • Climbing period : October to May, it’s too hot in the summer
  • Access time by public transportation : about 2h from Shinagawa
  • Remarks : there are beginners route ; very popular ; not always safely bolted ; part of the site is still forbidden

Jōgasaki (城ヶ崎)

  • Details here
  • Location : Izu peninsula (伊豆半島), Shizuoka prefecture (静岡県)
  • Climbing period : November to May, it’s too hot in the summer
  • Access time by public transportation : 1h30 by taking the Shinkansen to Atami (熱海) from Shinagawa (品川). Walking time depends on the cliff.
  • Remarks : sea side ; mainly crack climbing ; routes are not equiped ; top anchor can be made from the top of the cliffs ; a lot of cliffs are climbable ; a great climbing spot

Jōyama (城山)

  • Details here
  • Location : beginning of Izu peninsula
  • Climbing period : from end of September to beginning of June according to the guidebook, it’s too hot in the summer
  • Access time by public transportation : 1h40 by taking the Shinkansen to Mishima (三島) from Shinagawa
  • Remarks : multipitch routes ; slabs

Hiwadayama (日和田山)

  • Details here
  • Location : Saitama prefecture (埼玉県)
  • Climbing period : all year
  • Access time by public transportation : 50 minutes from Ikebukuro (池袋) then 30 minutes walk
  • Remarks : protections are old and unreliable ; routes for beginners ; only about 30 routes

Shōnin-iwa (聖人岩)

  • Details here
  • Location : Saitama prefecture (埼玉県)
  • Climbing period : apparently all year according to the topo, but it must must be too hot and humid in the summer to climb
  • Access time by public transportation : 1:150 minutes from Ikebukuro (池袋) then 30 minutes bus an 15 minutes walk
  • Remarks: about 30 nice routes from 5.8 to 5.12d (nothing comparable with Hiwadayama), polished holds, routes not always securely bolted

Kawamata (河又)

  • Details here
  • Location : Saitama prefecture (埼玉県)
  • Climbing period : apparently all year according to the topo, but it must must be too hot and humid in the summer to climb
  • Access time by public transportation : 2h from Ikebukuro et 15 minutes walk.
  • Remarks : a great site with lots of nice routes ; a lot of routes start with bouldering moves ; becareful with protections
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