Jam session at Jōgasaki (城ヶ崎)

Above the two big buckets were I’m resting my hands, a large crack runs straight up. The next hold is a meter above and nothing great for the feet. I jam my left fist where the crack gets narrower, raise my feet high on the buckets and load all my body on the fist to heave myself up and try to each the next hold. All my body weight is pulling on my wrist joint. It’s painful. I manage to grab the next hold with my right hand. The fist is stuckked in the crack. I struggle to get it out. I now have to complete the route…

It’s by this interesting movement, in the very nice bishamonten (毘沙門天) route (5.9+) in the Akane bay (Akane-no-wan, あかねの湾) that ended the first climbing week-end of this winter season, on the Jōgasaki (城ヶ崎) coast in the Izu (伊豆) peninsula.

father crack 1shinjin crackbishamonten route 1bishamonten route 2

A strange thing happened too to the same day. Before climbing bishamonten, the two times I tried to setup top ropes, the time for me to walk around the cliffs to reach the top the routes were already taken. I ended up placing the ropes on lines that are not in the guide book. Each time those lines ended up to be very nice and fun to climb. But as they were not on the guide book, no other climber wanted to climb them. Go figure why…

unknown route 1unknown route 2unknown route 3

It was an exceptional week-end, like it is often the case over there. Nothing like Maku-Iwa (幕岩) the week-end before. Of course some places were crowded, but as everybody let other climbers to use their top ropes, you always end-up climbing. It’s definitely one of my favorite place to climb in Japan.

Here are the videos I shot during the first day :

Check this page for other climbing videos and practical information regarding Jōgasaki.

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