After several week-ends with bad weather spend to relax, we took advantage of a national holiday and great blue sky yesterday to go climbing at Jōgasaki (城ヶ崎) in the Izu (伊豆) peninsula. Construction work on the hanging bridge across the cove, were the Family crack (ファミリー・クラック) routes are located, were finished so we could go back there to climb and get two of our friends to discover the place and have their first climbing experience in Jōgasaki and first crack climbing experience on some very nice routes.
We worked on the father crack (ファザー・クラック) (5.10b) and Uncle crack (アンクル・クラック) (5.9) routes which are very good to learn crack climbing and foot and hands jamming.
It was the opportunity for me to lead father crack for the first time. If climbing the first crack of the route top rope is easy in a lay back position, it is a different when you have to put the protection and after a first fall stopped by my first cam I felt scared several times. The crux of the large overhanging crack was another story. I didn’t any margin in my moves to put a protection while climbing it. With just two protections I placed at the bottom of the overhang, I gathered my courage and “run out” the last part. But when I reached the last move, I felt one of my feet starting to slip when I was moving my left hand, I had sudden cold sweat. Just enough time to jam my hand, finish the route and breathed a sigh of relief. That was tough for the nerves but so good to finally lead this route.
After that and training hand jamming in cracks, we climbed the Chi-chan ganbare (チーちゃんがんばれ) (5.10c) and Deltoid (デルトイド) (5.11a) on the slightly overhanging faces on the other side of the cove.
Check this page for climbing videos and practical information regarding Jōgasaki.