Last April, the last day of the climbing season in Jōgasaki (城ヶ崎), for the last route of the day, we tried the roof of crack of Lucky Stone (ラッキー・ストーン) route (5.10a) without having the time to redpoint it. Since then not a single month has passed, maybe not a single week, without thinking about the route and redoing in my head the moves of the crux. Redpoint that route free climbing became an obsession. Last week-end, I was back at Jōgasaki to satisfy that obsession and introduce the cracks of the area to some friends.
Saturday, we went to Family Crack (ファミリークラック), the closest. Father Crack (ファザー・クラック) and it’s beautiful vertical 5.10b line was perfect to have my friends taste Jōgasaki cracks. That was also the opportunity for me to free climb that route once more and film it as my first video about this route was shot top rope. After, we climbed Mother Crack (マーザークラック), a nice 5.10c route with a big hole in the middle where you can sit in. It is so comfortable that once in it you don’t really want to keep climbing. It’s a pity it’s in the shadow, otherwise we could have stay there the entire afternoon.
The video is available in the article Father Crack free.
Sunday, after taking breakfast on the sea side, I was back at Akane-no-hama (アカネの浜), at the base of Lucky Stone route. In my first attempt to climb the route free, I lost a lot of energy to find and place the gears. After the crux I was tired and out of breath so I had to ask my friend to take me so I could rest and finish the route. Back down, I was of course happy to have free climbed this 7 month project but was very sad not to have been able to redpoint the route. My friends were already climbing the next route, Cam Friday (カーム・フライデー) ; a beautiful 5.10c crack which was really attracting.
I really had a feeling of failure in Lucky Stone especially as I felt that I was very close to redpoint the route. After waiting seven months, I didn’t want to go back home with that feeling. So instead of climbing that new route, I motivated myself to climb Lucky Stone once more. That was a good decision as the second attempt was the good one and I succeed ro redpoint the route without any problem.
The video is available in the article Lucky stone free.
With two finished projects, I was sated for the week-end but I had already found in Cam Friday my next project Jōgasaki. I hope not to have to wait a year to complete this one.
Check this page for other climbing videos and practical information regarding Jōgasaki.