Jōgasaki (城ヶ崎), Kobai (こばい) crag
For the last day of our new-year’s rock climbing trip to Jōgasaki (城ヶ崎), wanting to avoid the week-end crowd and to discover a new place, we decided to go to Kobai (こばい) crag, roughly half way in between Family crack (ファミリー) and Akane-no-hama (あかねの浜). While the grades are easy, not only protecting the routes is not, but part of the routes’ moves (often the bottom 1/3 part) require some chimney climbing type of smearing which I’m not very used to, so the climbing ended up to be quite challenging for me. I only managed to pull out the easiest Kobai Chimney (こばいチムニー) route which is a very nice route which has a bit of everything: a hard to protect chimney start, a roof traverse on good holds and gears and a run out exit on good holds but very small gears. The good thing of having climbed only one route there is that it still leaves more projects to climb in Jōgasaki and will be back for sure once I finished my other leftover projects.
The crag has 5 main trad routes from 5.10a to 5.10d and 3 other routes on the side going up to a 5.11c run out – but only accessible late in the season on low tide. It is accessed by rappelling down and exit by climbing back up and pulling up your gears which is a bit of a hassle. The routes are also quite challenging to protect with often few and small protection placement at the start. Small nuts are a must have here. All these makes it an unpopular crag and I have almost never seen anyone climbing there. So if you’re looking for a quiet place it to climb in Jōgasaki, it is definitely one of them. But watch out for season, tide and waves height and strength, because the terrace at the bottom of the routes is just at sea level, so early in the winter season or with strong waves, you’ll inevitably get wet and your gears washed away.
Access from Tōkyō
This crag is most easily accessible from Izu-kōgen (伊豆高原) train station or parking (see the map in Jōgasaki article).
Information about Jōgasaki
Check this page for other climbing videos and more detailed information regarding Jōgasaki.