Rock climbing at Yukawa (湯川)

Mainly going climbing to Ogawayama (小川山) or Mizugaki (瑞牆山) in summer, I never took the time to go and try Yukawa (湯川). As my club proposed to go climbing there I took the opportunity.

The crag is nice but not extraordinary ; if the topo mentions about 30 routes I would say that only half of them are interesting or climbable depending on how you look at it. And among them I would say that about only 5 routes are really worth it. The four main routes are Corkscrew (コークスクリュー) graded 5.9 located right at the entrance and especially the three main cracks which are Psychokinesis (サイコキネシス) graded 5.10d, Vampire (バンパイア) graded 5.10c and Teleportation (テレポーテーション) graded 5.10d.

Many clubs and guides with their clients go there to train crack climbing so if you end up going there the same day than everyone, you will have to queue at the bottom of the routes.

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Note that there is an ice climbing (highly depends on conditions) further deep in the valley and an onsen at the entrance of the valley to relax at the end of your climbing.

General Information

  • Climbing period: May to November. But varies depending on snow conditions.
  • Rock : Ignimbrite
  • Exposition : South
  • Number of routes : About 30, but only 10 to 15 looks interesting.
  • For more information : Nihon Hyaku Iwaba 3: Izu/Koushin (フリークライミング 日本100岩場・3 伊豆・甲信) – ISBN 4635180832.

Access from Tōkyō

To go climbing to Yukawa, the best is without a doubt to go by car. Without, you would have to take a train to Umijiri (海尻) or Saku-Uminokuchi (佐久海ノ口), but as there is no bus from there you would have to take a taxi and due to train schedule it will be a late start.

Security

Except one or two bolted routes which looks uninteresting, all routes are cracks. Cracks no being regular (not knife cut spliter cracks) and the rock a bit soft, watch out for your cam placement and don’t hesitate to place more gear than on granite route for example. Avoid using small nuts on this rock.

On the routes I climb, the anchors looked good.

Other climbing crags

For the list of climbing crags close to Tōkyō, check this article.

For the list of climbing & bouldering gyms in Tōkyō, check this article.

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