Information about Oritatami-iwa (折り畳み岩) at Hōrai (鳳来)
Early April 2014 I went to bolt new routes in Hōrai (鳳来) at a new crag I called Oritatami-iwa (折り畳み岩, which means “the foldable rock”), in reference to its shape. I bolted 4 routes there and you will find in this article all the information to go climbing there.
- Season: all year
- Rock: Tuff
- Exposition: West
- Number of routes: 4
For General information about Hōrai (access, accommodation, maps…) please refer to this article.
With only 4 routes, Oritatami-iwa won’t be a major crag in Hōrai. But the routes are original with their boulder start and to my opinion Akatombo and Blood, Sweat and Tears are as good as some Hōrai classics.
All the FAs have been made by Ken-Ichi AOSHIMA (賢一 青島)
Liste des voies de droite à gauche
- 赤とんぼ(Akatonbo), 5.11d, 7 bolts, the crux of the route might be to clip the chains…
- 亀の頭(Kame-no-atama = Turtle’s head), 5.11d, 7 bolts
- Blood, Sweat and Tears, 5.12a, 8 bolts, clip the chains from the jug above it
- Farewell, 5.12a, 7 bolts, clip the chains from the jug above it
- Cool in the summer
- short approach for Hōrai (about 20 minutes)
- normaly climbable during and after the rain (the overhang head wall protects from the rain)
- varied routes (bouldering start, easy intermediate section and overhang for the finale)
- Only 4 routes
- Not really homogeneous routes (bouldering start, easy intermediate section and overhang for the finale), but why do routes have to be homogeneous?
- In the shade in winter
- Anchors are equiped with Fixe Hardware’s INOX chains fixed on 10mm double expansion bolts.
- In the routes, the protections are PETZL’s 10 mm expansion bolts, or some 10 mm double expansion bolts or few 12mm PETZL expansion bolts as I ran out of 10mm bolts.
- There are two anchors for four routes. The two right routes (Akatonbo and Turtle’s head) and the two left routes (Blood, Sweat and Tears and Farewell) finish at the same anchor.
- There are three route start. The routes Turtle’s head and Blood, Sweat and Tears share the same start.
- To avoid ground fall, the first bolt of the two right start (toutes: Akatonbo, Turtle’s head and Blood, Sweat and Tears are placed high and should be pre-clipped.
- In all the routes, bolts are spaced out in the middle section as the rock quality is not so good. As the climbing is very easy it is not a problem.
- The upper part, overhanging, has been bolted with bolts quite close to avoid hitting the lower inclined part of the route on big fall.
- Even if I cleaned, there is still a risk of rock breaking. I recommend the belayer to wear a helmet.
The approach walk is relatively short for Hōrai. Park at the same parking than to go to Chisansui (治山水) or Paradise (パラダイズロック). Follow the road and at the end of it the trail that leads to Paradise rock. When you arrive on the ridge blocked by trees on the trail, a cairn and tape showing the way up the ridge to Paradise rock, keep following the trail straight. After few meters you will quickly reach a slab (instead of crossing it (it is sketchy), go around it by crossing the forest below it and then back up. Once on the other side of the slab, follow the trail, paint and tape. After few meters, you’ll quickly cross two dry river banks and be back on a good trail again. After about 3~5 meters the trail curves left and goes straight up. After about 15 meters, before the trail curve right, look for a small cairn on the left. Go straight left in the forest, cross a dry river bank again and you will be see the rock immediately on your right.
The GPS position below is approximate as my GPS couldn’t get proper signal