Bolting Biwakubosawa (枇杷窪沢)

 In Mountain information

After a year bolting Coccinelle Rock at Biwakubosawa (枇杷窪沢) near Mizugakiyama (瑞牆山) and after having shared and enjoyed these new routes with friends, I published all the information about those two crags and the routes I bolted. You will find in this article the details about how those routes were bolted.

The goal is to provide climbers, with appropriate information for them to evaluate on their own if the routes were properly and safely bolted or not.

You will find here the list of gears (bolts, chains and glue) I used and links to the manufacturer web sites. The video also present all those gears and shows how I actually placed bolts and anchors.

Anchors

Anchor rod:Hilti stainless HAS-E-R M10

hilti-HAS-E-R-100

Chains:Fixe hardware stainless rappel station FX037

FX037-200

Glue:Asahi Kasei MU10 capsule (in Japanese)

AK-capsules-200

For rappel stations, I also wanted glued anchors for the equipment to be homogeneous and same quality and safety level. For reasons of simplicity and gears availability, I chose a combination of classic chain rappel anchors, attached on Hilti anchor bolts glued-in using glue capsules. For glue capsules, I used what was available in Japan and recommended on a Japanese web site. For the rappel station, I preferred capsules, because they were compatible with the bolts (capsules are not compatible with Fixe hardware glue-in bolts), far easier to use and allowed me to set rappel stations one at a time without wasting glue (as it would otherwise dry in between ; see below).

Installed anchor

chain-400

Glue-in bolts

Bolt:Fixe Hardware 014A 10mm

FX014a

Glue:Hilti HY 200-A 330/2/EE

hilti-HIT-HY-150-a

For the glue, there are several possibilities.

But first I decided to use Hilti’s glue because their products are available and used worldwide so it was easier to get the specifications and information.

On the Petzl site and the Japan Free Climbing Association (in Japanese), one of the recommended glue was Hilti RE500. But that glue is pink so I wanted something less ugly and visible. The other option mentioned it Hilti’s HY150 but that glue is not manufactured nor sold anymore and has been replaced by the HY200 in version A or R. If Petzl web site has been updated, Japan’s Free Climbing Association page has not.

There are two types available in Japan HY200-A or HY200-R. I chose the HY200-A as it dries faster. But in my case, as I was not looking at climbing the routes right away, it was more an inconvenient than an advantage. The glue dries so fast that if I would spend too much time between two bolts in the sun and heat between two bolts, it would completely dry in the tube. Also if I would glue bolts on two routes in a row, I knew that by the time I would have moved from one route to the other, the glue would turn into concrete in the tube. And at the price of the glue, it hurts. But the advantage is that it is beige and does not clash with the rock color.

Glued bolt

bolt-360
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